Thursday, September 7, 2023

Saint Malo

       The Brittany coast of France is well west of Paris; it is an agricultural hub, growing cereals and grains for animal production and vegetable oils, among others. Fields of sunflowers line the back roads and offer their seedy heads to the sun while coloring bright yellow an otherwise green landscape of corn and wheat fields. 83 years ago, the port city of Ste. Malo anchored the southern end of Hitler's Atlantic Wall-the hard shell defensive line meant to thwart an invasion of Germany's now western edge that included France.

      The port is on the north side of the peninsula, looking across the English Channel to the UK's south coast with its White Cliffs of Dover. 18th century occupants determined that this port should be defended with appropriate fortifications and such a fortress was constructed on a high promontory over looking the harbor which included the river delta of the Rance river. The harbor is well protected from the north seas, with approaches protected by various islands and rock outcroppings. When the Nazis arrived in September of 1940, the occupiers immediately decided that the old fort could be improved upon, and with zeal, the engineers set to the task. Given the range of modern naval guns and the size of shells used, the engineers had many issues to contend with during the design phase. Additionally, the real threat of aerial bombardment was probably paramount. Given its 200+ feet above the harbor, the position was also ideal for an antiaircraft installation.

      After the Allies invaded on June 6, 1944, attention to Ste. Malo came into focus. While not in the direct path of the advance beyond the beachhead, the southern port was recognized as a logistical hub much needed to support armies on the move eastward. Gen. Eisenhower, the Supreme Commander, ordered Gen. George Patton's 3rd Army south to capture the port. On August 14th, '44, the US Army began the attack. In no time, the defenders realized there was no way out, and no help would be coming to lift the siege. Surrender of the garrison soon followed and the 400 Germans were captured. On August 14th, 2023, the Mayor and company went on a guided tour of the Nazi fortress, including the interior living quarters; the gun positions, and the communications centers-all under ground, capped by 18' of reinforced concrete.

       The Nazis installed a network of gun positions, offering mutual support against an attacking force. One key element was the placement of protected machinegun pill boxes placed on the perimeter. They were engineered to be occupied by at least 2 gunners and supported from below by a crew that could pass ammunition up to the gun; retrieve and remove spent rounds; direct fire by a periscope that could view 360 degrees, and also afford repositioning of the gun hydraulically 180 degrees in both directions. One feature included was a steel cap over the 18' tall cylinder-shaped enclosure. This was the cast steel exposed top, placed on the concrete base. It weighs 47 tons and is about 10 inches thick on the top and sides. It could hold up against all small arms fire and some armor piercing projectiles. We were able to exam one very closely; one that had been targeted and hit by at least 50 rounds.

More to follow

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