Tuscany 1943-44

I asked a few ITALIANS if they could recommend a book about life in Tuscany during WWII. The consensus was a book by an Englishwoman who lived on a farm near Montepulciano throughout the war years. She published a diary that tells the story in her own words. She went on to write many books to wide acclaim after the diary was published. She wrote history, biography, and a novel or two, and a memoir of her only son, Gianni, who died of meningitisat age 7.
The story of her family's ordeal chronicles the time period of greatest difficulty for Tuscany: the time of the facists(Mussolini's era and its ending), the German Occupation Period, the Partisan Period, and the final battles as the Allies recaptured Italy from the German Army late in 1944. Her ordeals included dealing with the 50 sharecropper families living on the 3000a. estate; her own newborn infant; the addition of 30 orphans from Milan(sent without a request), a chaotic political situation; escaped prisoners looking for refuge; downed pilots looking for aid to return to Allied troop positions; partisans seeking food, shelter, and medical aid; and Italian refugees seeking shelter from their own war torn towns and cities.
It is a fascinating account of the family as they made every effort to survive and to assist as many of those as they could who asked for help. It does not cover many of the other areas beyond the central Tuscan landscape, but she does give a very clear account of the difficulties faced by civilians who were trapped by circumstances beyond their control.
The family estate, called La Foce, is well maintained today by her two daughters. It is located in the hill country near Siena, and its beautiful , English designed gardens are open to visitors one day a week.
The War in Val d'Orcia by Iris Origo- a good read!

Galileo's Daughter

Author Dava Sobel has published another great story. Wrapping a family with intimate history has again served her well. Like her book, LONGITUDE, this book gives the reader a glimpse into Renaissance Italy. This was the time of exploration and discovery, a time of religious authoritarianism, papal confusion and turnover, and a remaking of the map of Europe. Galileo, the professor, scientist, observer, inventor, and father.
The story revolves around the relationship between Galileo and his older daughter, the eldest of his 3 children. The 2 daughters have been given to the Catholic Church as nuns in a convent. This was commonly done by Catholic families, given the cost of dowries of the period. The daughter was educated, intelligent and loved her father very much. The surviving letters of their correspondence detail not only life in the convent, but her response to the many travails of her famous father.
Galileo began to challenge the Copernican earth centric theory with a solar centric theory based on mathematics and observations. This theory did not sit well with the Church, the Pope, and the members of the Inquisition: the fact finding board of the Church. It was like a Grand Jury, excepting that the Inquisition could find a suspect guilty and impose sentence and penalties. So it was with Galileo. Despite his failing health, he was found guilty of a mild form of heresy and confined in Rome. He was then sentenced to house arrest at his home near Florence but he was not allowed to leave to visit his daughters even though they lived within a few miles.
The Pope would not relent, even when Galileo's daughter took sick and died within days at age 26. Galileo himself, died just a few years later without any relief from his sentence. It wasn't until 1899 that the Church reviewed his case.
Galileo's crime revolved around the discoveries made with with his "new" telescope. Grinding his own lenses, he was able to calculate the necessary curvature to be ground for each lens. His crime: writing about what he saw and what it meant to him as an observer. Of course, this differed from what Church officials said was written in the Bible. Robert Bellarmine, the Church official who made the investigation, deemed his efforts heresy. Galileo was a devout Catholic, but also the father of modern science. He used what we call today the scientific method. The Catholic Church does not come off well in this book, truth be told!
It's a good read. It includes the local reaction to the Bubonic Plague and how it affected the population: survivors and victims alike. It's not a pretty picture. Somehow, Galileo survived
the plague, but not the Inquisition.

1968 The Exhibition

If you can recall any of the events in the US during 1968, you are probably about 50 years old, give or take a few years. Some historians label 1968 as the most important year of the 20th century in the USA. Why, you ask, is this year considered as such?
The Oakland Museum of California answers that question for you in living color: a traveling exhibit labelled "1968" is currently on view in the gallery located in downtown Oakland. Put together by the Minnesota Historical Society, the focus is on the culture of America as it was across the spectrum of our society in 1968. Month by month, the events are laid bare through various media: newspapers, television, music, art,science, sports, and education. Artifacts on display include a HUEY helicopter, the hard face of the Vietnam conflict.
As a participant in many of the events on display, it is a walk through history, down memory lane, that famous lane we all walk at different times.
The catalog that accompanies the show is well written and informative.
Our Minister of Culture awards the museum show 4 stars- a definite must see.
Well done Oaktown!

Spain and Greece

Now the Spaniards are .getting serious. Seriously worried. The WSJ noted in the Saturday edition that the government of Spain is sending billions of Euros to the Bankia bank to shore up its balances and to instill confidence. This might instill fear. Concerns are growing across souther Europe that a bank run on deposits could sink the financial system of the 17 Euro linked countries.
Of course, President Obama and his financial/economic advisors have their collective fingers on the pulse of Europe, and not just the Euro bloc. Any further slippage into deeper recession(double dip) will affect the US' anemic growth rate(barely breathing in 2012).
Despite the official end of our recession in 2009, the sluggish growth barely indicates confidence or optimism. With the election of 2012 months away, Obama has to promote his record as more than a caretaker government, but one of masterfully rescuing the country from Europe's fate. Can he do this? All eyes are on Greece: new elections will occur in a few weeks. The fate of the Euro is hanging in the balance. If, and a big "IF" it is, Greek voters decide to unhinge themselves from EU austerity prescriptions already agreed to, then an exit will surely follow, and with it, using the Greek-chaos. What would follow would be far worse than any austerity measures: hyperinflation, increased unemployment, and certainly a collapse in the government, and perhaps the structure of democratic government itself.
Time is getting short, as everybody involved recognizes. Leadership is needed, and leadership is lacking, not just in Greece, but across Europe. The bankers have themselves to blame as they have ignored warning signs for years, letting the good times roll. Spain is the focus, but Greece is the problem.

Memorial Day Weekend

It is only the end of May, but let's kick off the season with a big weekend! Tahoma will be hopping this Sat/Sun /Monday as locals and guests will hit the ground running to indulge in all types of outdoor sports and adventures. The Lake will experience boat launchings by the dozen as boaters trailer their craft to the ramps(inspected first, of course by our lake purity guardians).
Camp grounds will fill up early, starting yesterday. D.L. Bliss will go quickly, as will Emerald Bay boat -in sites. Blackstone canyon will go fast, and Sugar Pine Point will also go fast. So, if you are planning to camp this weekend, and you don't have a reservation: GET CRACKIN'.

Summer has arrived at Lago di Tahoe!! Foreign languages will be heard, again as guest workers arrive from Europe(to escape the Euro Zone) to enjoy a beautiful summer experience in California despite the State's financial woes. They seem less troublesome than Europe's financial mess.
Enjoy a safe and sane weekend holiday.

The Old Fly Fisherman Il Pescatore

One recent afternoon I joined a group of fellow students to visit a small town in the upper Arno River Valley in the heart of Toscana/Tuscany. It was a picture book afternoon with clear skies and warm temperatures, a clear change from the lingering effects of a prolonged spell of unseasonably cold and wet weather for the past few weeks(March-April).
The town of Poppi is seldom visited by tourists except those of Italian origins and those foreigners with an interest in medieval history who want to examine an intact and preserved example of castle construction.
Perched on a strategic hilltop near the center of the older part of the town, the castle commands an important position above the river and its valley. The views in both directions along the river are clear and unobstructed-clearly a tactical advantage over any adversaries.
As we departed the train station, the structure was lost to view, and we had to cross a bridge before beginning the steep climb to the castle. As we crossed the bridge, I looked over the side and saw clear, moving water. The river/stream is about 30 yards wide, and probably less than 1 meter deep. I thought this looks like a trout stream. I looked up stream and I saw him: il pescatore!
He was grey headed, standing in the water, about 3 meters from the bank. He was dressed lightly, with only a long sleeved shirt, long pants with hip waders. He didn't have a creel or a back pack, nor was any of this gear behind him on shore. No doubt he was fishing home waters.
The next thing I noticed was his rod or "canna". From the bridge, it appeared to be about 5 meters in length, with a heavy butt, like a spey rod. Except- no reel, no line box! Only a line attached at the tip. With the line he could roll cast across the stream to the edge of some willows that overhung the water. It looked like a good spot, but he didn't appear to have any luck. But the scenario was classic trout stream, trout fisherman.
Later on that afternoon, when we returned on our way to the train station, I stopped on the bridge to observe the water. Sure enough, on the down stream side of the bridge, there were trout holding on the edge of the bridge footing, perhaps a dozen or more of decent sized trout. But no fishermen anywhere. Next time I'll have my rod and try my luck.

Bullet Train the Spanish Version

Modern transportation modes exist in many styles and designs. Engineering plays a large role when it comes to speed and efficiency. With trains, its about speed: to compete with low cost air travel, a train must cover the distance between point A and point B with minimum time spent on board. So, we hear of the bullet train. Japan has had them for years; Europe for only about 20 years. And now, they have become more competitive. Italy has its red, green, and silver arrow trains(part of EuroStar).
In Spain, they have 3 lines, one of which travels from Barcelona to Madrid, a distance of about 420 miles. The Ave(bird) travels on a separate track from the Atocha Station in Central Madrid. Tickets run about 120Euros each, one way, preferred class, with meal service. There was one stop, in Zaragosa, for about 20 minutes. The rest of the time, we sat back and enjoyed the ride, at about 200 miles per hour. Yes, 200 mph!. Quiet, smooth, with a staff of amiable and efficient crew members. It was a pleasure. Screening helped to alleviate any security issues(easy for frequent fliers). The platform was clean and newly constructed.
2 1/2 hours later, we arrived in Madrid. It was a fine alternative to air travel: no crowded terminals, no overly aggressive personal body inspections, no 2 hour wait for boarding, extra seats available, quiet comfort from start to finish. What a pleasure. It serves to remind the traveler that there are other choices for that 500 mile trip. It actually involves less time than flying, start to finish.
The Bullet Train-the AVE!

Europe Euro EU and Economy

After an extended stay on the Continent, the Mayor has a better picture of the situation among the 27 member countries of the European Union, formerly the Common Market. This economic union, in its 13th year, is experiencing some growing pains. Design flaws have become apparent to all members and to other world trading partners.
While reading several daily papers from around the union(Italy, Germany, UK, Spain, and the NYTimes), it is apparent that the crisis has more roots in politics than economics. The view from the northern countries(Germany, Benelux, Swiss, Scandinavia) is that their southern neighbors have been engaged in profligate spending, contrary to the EU rules. Greece, a country of 10 millions, is only the canary in the coal mine. Other member states, France, Spain, Italy, Portugal, etc. have the same issues times 5, at least. The largest economies of Spain, France, and Italy, can hardly be "bailed" out. The Germans, under Angela Merkel, do not want their Euros sent south.
What to do? Politicians can hardly recommend austerity in the face of high unemployment and an ongoing recession. 11 national leaders have already been replaced, and more are on the way. Conditions in the UK and Russia do not indicate solutions from their markets. Voters, meanwhile, have been stymied in their efforts to find leaders who can provide solutions. The least worse alternative has given rise to the radical, or left leaning representative. This often happens during hard times for the economy.
Where will it end? Will the Euro survive? Will Greece go it alone? Can Greece survive at all? Who's next to get bailed out? Will Spain endure more pain(26% rate of unemployment)? Will Italy have to pay higher bond interest? These are a few of the current questions.
More Later

Antonio Gaudi, Spaniard

A few architects achieve a level of status/fame that places their reputation right up there with with the pantheon of the gods. While not Rock stars, they do become revered figures that become the darlings of culture vultures, critics, and even a few builders.
Antonio Gaudi began his work in the late 19th century, in Spain. Shortly after he began his professional endeavors, it became clear he had "style". The City of Barcelona was the center of his efforts and gave space to many of his creations. Among the many buildings in Barce that he designed, the most familiar, the most famous, the most sought after is the La Sagrada Familia, the unique Cathedral in downtown Barcelona.
This amazing place, this incredible structure, this major attraction, this holy house of God is his signature work.
Begun in 1889, it is getting close to being finished. Perhaps another 15 years for completion. When the Mayor first visited the site in 2008, the building was well along, but the main part of the church was still without a roof! In 2012, It has a roof, and all the windows are in. The Cathedral was formally dedicated by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010. Great videos are available in the Church of this event, this most unusual event. It is something that occurred regularly many years ago, but now, not so much.
The building defies description. There really is no other structure that compares. His idea of form and function were most unusual, to say the least. He incorporated so many diverse elements that it looks almost assembled from separate and unique parts.
I can only recommend the web site for inspection because any attempt at description would come up short. So, have a look at what a world renowned architect thought a church could look like.
Antonio Gaudi

Eclipse of the Sun

My science advisers informed the Mayor of a major solar event that is to occur today, Sunday, May 20. The event: a solar eclipse, in the early evening, that will be visible in Northern California to millions of residents. I almost forgot, until I overheard two individuals near Best Buy, mention it. Then I noticed a change in the ambient sunlight, a definite filtered effect that literally caused some concern. What was happening here?
I went home, grabbed some welder's goggles, and went to take a look at Old Sol. Sure enough, looking West, well above the horizon, above the surrounding hills, it appeared that something had carved a notch out of the sun. After a minute or so, the notch got noticeably larger, and clearly was moving right to left.
The sky was clear and visibility was excellent. I invited the Deputy Mayor to take a look through the welder's goggles(to shield the retinas from possible damage). She was afforded the best view: the Sun was now partially hidden by the mostly complete shadow of the moon, appearing as a round black spot. She returned the goggles, and I inspected the eclipse one more time: it was remarkable, and great timing on our part as we were able to observe the highlight of the event. Galileo would be proud!