As a young journalist, Professor McPhee sought topics for his writing close to home. The Professor grew up in Princeton, New Jersey, which is located a bit north of the center of the state. The journalist's art form-the essay, the column, the in-depth article, seeks to reveal to readers little known facts often overlooked. The Pine Barrens offered just such a topic: a place, nearby, that most locals knew a little about, but few knew well. Mr. McPhee turned his sights on to the Pine Barrens.
At one time, the area included about 1600 sq. miles of the landscape, but by the 1960's, it was reduced to about 1000 sq. miles, more or less. This is not inconsiderable in a relatively small state as New Jersey. The Barrens occupy the southeast corner of the state, not including the Atlantic coast. It's topography is characterized by low undulations without significant high points. This speaks to the geology of the area formed by glaciation and the retreat of those glaciers over time. Throughout the area, one can find the reason for the name-Pine Barrens. The forested landscape is covered with trees: pines, firs, and cedars. In some parts, the trees are so thick as to limit intrusion by anybody.
McPhee, a New Jersey native, was raised on the northern edge of the Barrens, at Princeton, a place that would become his touchstone for life(he still resides there and works at the University). In his early 30's, McPhee felt it was time to explore the region on his doorstep and give it and its inhabitants some scrutiny, and off he went(down the road a piece.)
On one of his first forays into the Pines, McPhee met two men who would mentor him for years on all topics "Barrens": Mr. Fred Brown, 79, and Mr. Bill Wasovwich, 26 years old. They are neighbors, living in a place/town of Hog Wallow with about 23 other residents. Fred is a widower, father of 7 children, all moved away years ago. Bill was left behind when his parents decided to leave, one after the other when he was about 15 years old. He was left to fend for himself; which he has done. Fred provides advice and guidance based on his vast experience as a father.
As per McPhee's diligence and skills as a writer/journalist, he develops background, providing not just history, but depth and substance through connected dots that illuminate local character. Fascinated by geology, McPhee includes the story of how iron rich minerals were leached from the earth by glaciation and found their way to the streams and bogs of the Barrens. During the Revolutionary War(1776+++), these iron finds were sourced as material for cannon and shot used by Gen. George Washington, among others. Smelters were scattered across the low hills and wood-fired kilns consolidated the metal into shot.
Concurrently, agriculture was found to be wanting due to poor soil conditions: too sandy and lacking nutrients of any sort. Looking at what grew there, locals fixed on blueberries and cranberries which thrived on cold, clean water that settled in bogs/swamps across the landscape. Over time, locals figured out what works, and a thriving business of berry farming became the mainstay of the Barrens(today, we know this in the brand:Ocean Spray).
Modernization of surroundings did occur: highways(two) passed through the area, east and west; and north and south. Atlantic City was the resort town on the coast cited as the new Las Vegas. Despite the efforts of former President Donald Trump, it failed in that regard. A supersonic jet port made it to the drawing boards complete with housing, adjacent businesses, and recreation facilities. It went nowhere. The New Jersey legislature continues to thwart all efforts to change anything, ever.
With little remarkable features to draw visitors, the area at best, is a draw for deer hunters who visit annually to stock their freezers with venison for the winter. Bill and Fred often provide guide services in the area around Hog Wallow. Professor McPhee has done well to shed some light on the area. Despite its location to the power centers of commerce and government, the Barrens remain foreign to most Americans, and most New Jersey folk as well.
5 stars- It's a good quick, read, in the McPhee genre of journalism.
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