Saturday, June 9, 2012

Plaza de Toros de la Madrid

The Mayor and the Minister of Latin American Affairs went to the bullfights recently while on an inspection visit to Espagna. Why do they call them bullfights? Bulls don't do the fighting. Bulls just show up and run around. It was a sellout crowd, and their was high anticipation. This event was part of the larger event: the Festival of San Isidro, patron of Madrid. For 2 weeks, the city of Madrid is celebrating the life and times of their saint.
It seems like one party after another. At the bullring, the crowd was mixed: men and women, old and young, rich and poor, and everything in between. The afternoon, early evening was overcast, and a light sprinkle began just before the first event, but not enough to warrant umbrellas. The temps were perfect-in the 70's. We sat about half way up, in the midpriced area, with our seat cushions against the granite stone. We were surrounded by Spaniards, and the Minister was feeling at home.
Today's card included well known toreros, young veterans with numerous fans. El Presidente was in his box with his entourage for added importance. The late start obviously needed so the chief executive could make critical decisions regarding the economy.
So, for the next 2 hours, we were entertained by the spectacle of horsemanship extraordinaire, the favorite type of bullfighting for those present. In this type, the toreros never dismount from the horse until the bull is finished. Using at least 6 different horses the torero performs his routine, guiding the animal as the bull is circled, prodded, dodged, attacked, and defeated. It's all about the horse. At the end, the horse does a victory lap to grand ovation from the crowd. The crowd is estimated at about 18 grand, a sellout.
And a good time was had by all.
Before the event, we visited an exhibition tent set up outside in the Plaza. It was an exhibition dedicated to the life of American author Ernest Hemingway. It followed his life and his relationship with Spain, bullfighting, matadors, and of course, Rioja wine. In photos, text and awards, the displays told a story of a life well lived, from earliest beginnings to its sad finale. Missing from the text was the recently revealed role of the F.B.I.. Records prove that J. Edgar Hoover, head of the FBI, had illegally wire tapped Hemingway's phone, followed him around the world, and established a dossier on his associates,casual and otherwise. This pattern of illegal activity certainly contributed to his "paranoia" that eventually drove the author to suicide. A sad statement on government power in the US.
After departing the bullring, we took the subway back to the city center, in this case Plaza del Sol. What a scene! A demonstration against austerity by the government. 50,000+ Spaniards marching in concert to express their displeasure with current conditions of high unemployment and higher taxes, and reduced spending. We did not stay around to see the outcome, that would be imprudent. We gor home in time for a late dinner.
Another good day on the continent.

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