Tuesday, November 5, 2013

The Seine: A River in Time

      Few rivers enjoy the reputation of the French icon.  Storied for generations, visited by countless millions, crossed continuously by thousands everyday.   At Paris, the river is wide and channeled, as it has been for a very long time.   Geologically, it is a mature riverine environment, meaning not much downcutting is going on, not much erosion along its banks can be expected.  Hence, the residents look upon the river for its aesthetic properties: the views, the opportunities for transport, the water source, and the history all in one.
      The river bed meanders through this area of France; the  river makes wide, looping turns, creating blind curves for boatmen, and challenges for engineers and bridge builders.    Islands exist in the river: large, built up affairs resembling anchored ships waiting for a tidal change.   Two of note are quite obvious: Ile St. Louis and Il de la Cite'.   Both provide homes to magnificent cathedrals-Notre Dame on la Cite and St. Louis en l'Ile.  Both high on the list of must see sites.
      The banks are both tree-lined venues  with ample walking paths for strollers.   Cafes and restaurants are located in nodes near the many bridges.   At night, the lighting effects create another visual feast: indirect uplighting accentuates the many museums and government offices.   Churches take on a new look with spires standing out against the black night.  And the Eiffel Tower flood lit to great appearance.   These nights, every hour on the hour, a spectacle of illumination occurs within the framework of the tower: blinking microlights twinkle in fireworks-fashion to give the icon an even higher profile.   A night cruise on one of the many tour boats is the best vantage for this scene.
     The Left Bank, which most literate readers are familiar with, is that side of the river as it passes through the city that is the traditional home of artists, art, shops, and parks of some note.   It truly is an amazing area.  One distinct part is known as St. Germain.  Here one can find the campus of the Sorbonne, the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Palais du Luxembourg, and the Universita Paris V, to name a few.   Boulevard St. Germain is the grand thoroughfare.
     Riverside is the famous  Muse'e d'Orsay, found in the northern area of the 6th arrondissement(neighborhood).   The museum is home to one of the world's most amazing collection of impressionist paintings.   Housed in the converted train depot, this location is absolutely unique and one of the great art institutions of the planet, bar none.  During our 2 visits to the museum, we experienced magnificent weather and we were able to walk directly there from our apartment.  Sundays get busy with many French tourists thrown in with everybody else.  Weekdays are better.  The Museum Pass is great as it affords access to a separate entrance, a time saver/line beater!
     As a bonus, the continuous barge traffic on the river in both directions is a constant moving diorama that grabs the viewers eyes as the boats navigate the confines of the banks carrying their various cargoes.  A visual feast for all.

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